Middle Ages in Egypt and the Near East
- Key People:
- Peter Paul Rubens
- Raphael
- Francisco Goya
- Joan Miró
- Charles Le Brun
News •
Tapestry weaving was done by the Copts, or Egyptian Christians, from the 3rd to about the 12th century ce. Their tapestries are of great interest not only because of their artistic quality and technical skill but also because they are a bridge between the art of the ancient world and the art of the Middle Ages in western Europe. Fragments from the 5th to the 7th century are particularly numerous, and the largest number of examples have survived in the Egyptian cemetery sites of Akhmīm, Antinoë, and Ṣaqqārah. As a result of a change in burial customs, perhaps attributable to Romanization and the widespread adoption of Christianity in Egypt, the ancient practice of mummification and its attendant ritual fell into disuse after the 4th century ce. The dead were subsequently buried in daily clothes or were wrapped in discarded wall hangings and tapestries. The clothing was ornamented with tapestry trimming, which was either woven into the fabric or attached to tunics and cloaks. Other burial furnishings included pillows and coverings. Tapestries were also used for the decoration of Christian churches, but few of these wall hangings have survived.
Coptic tapestries were woven with woolen wefts on linen warps, though a few with silk wefts have been preserved. Cotton wefts were occasionally used to obtain a brighter white. Primarily in the 7th century and perhaps also the 8th century, tapestry ornamentation was often supplemented by embroidery, as in border margins. In a special variant, which is not true tapestry, characteristic ornamental motifs such as meanders or other geometric repeats are executed with a free bobbin that follows the design without regard to consistency of weft direction.
Many of the early Coptic tapestries were done in a silhouette technique in which the motif or design was in a single dark colour, usually a tone of purple achieved by dying with madder and indigo, against a lighter background colour. After the 5th century, polychrome tapestries became increasingly common.
Many Coptic tapestry trimmings were woven with indigenous designs. Recurring motifs related to the ancient Egyptian funerary cult of Osiris and included the grape vine or ivy and the wine amphora. These motifs were considered appropriate to burial robes because of their relevance to revival in a life after death. Other favourite subjects were the hunter on horseback, boy-warriors, desert animals (especially the lion and the hare), creatures of mythology, dancing figures, and baskets of fruits and flowers. Christian subjects are as a rule late in date and are mostly figures of saints, standing or on horseback, against a red background. Depictions of biblical stories are rare. Some of the Coptic designs were copied, in a more or less distorted manner, from those woven into silk textiles imported from Syria.
After the invasion of Egypt by the Muslims in 640, the quality of Coptic tapestry began to deteriorate, although the industry continued to flourish by adapting itself to the tastes of the conquerors. During the Tūlūnid period (868–905) bands of tapestry trimming in wool or often in silk, occasionally with metal-thread enrichments, were woven into white or dark green linen garments. In the Fātimid period (909–1171) silk tapestry weaving in golden yellow and scarlet became common. The motifs of the Islamic period of Egyptian weaving were often interlacing geometric patterns frequently enclosing inscriptions or highly stylized small birds, animals, and flowers. Many of these inscriptions merely simulate writing, but many are legible. Giving religious phrases or the names and titles of rulers, they are in handsome angular Kufic scripts on earlier pieces and in cursive scripts later.
From the 6th to the 8th century ce, and doubtless from then on, striking wool tapestries were being made in Syria corresponding in style to the contemporary silk textiles with animals or birds in energetic heraldic stylization, framed in roundels, and almost always on a red ground. Later, from the 11th to the 13th century, highly distinctive silk- and gold-thread tapestries were produced in Syria incorporating pagan motifs from classical antiquity.
Fewer specimens of Persian tapestries have survived, but one notable fragment, now in the Moore Collection at Yale University, bears an ibex in the style of the Sāsānian period. A single piece from the Seljuq period (11th century) established a continuation of the use of the tapestry technique, which reappears in the 16th century (intermediate examples apparently having all been destroyed) as the medium for rich silk- and metal-thread rugs, of which only three are known still to exist (also in the Moore Collection, New Haven, Connecticut), though others are illustrated in Persian miniatures. The modern descendants of these are kilims, or pileless carpets woven by the tapestry technique. Common to the entire Near East, these rugs are especially produced in the Caucasus and Asia Minor, as well as in parts of eastern Europe. Occasionally silk, they are more often wool with simple geometric patterns in bold colours.
Early Middle Ages in western Europe
Numerous documents dating from as early as the end of the 8th century describe tapestries with figurative ornamentation decorating churches and monasteries in western Europe, but no examples remain, and the ambiguity of the terms used to refer to these hangings makes it impossible to be certain of the technique employed. The 11th-century so-called Bayeux Tapestry depicting the Norman Conquest of England, for example, is not a woven tapestry at all but is a crewel-embroidered hanging.
Like the art of stained glass, western European tapestry flourished largely from the beginnings of the Gothic period in the 13th century to the 20th century. Few pre-Gothic tapestries have survived. Perhaps the oldest preserved wall tapestry woven in medieval Europe is the hanging for the choir of the church of St. Gereon at Cologne in Germany. This seven-colour wool tapestry is generally thought to have been made in Cologne in the early 11th century. The medallions with bulls and griffons locked in combat were probably adapted from Byzantine or Syrian silk textiles. The Cloth of Saint Gereon is thematically ornamental, but an early series of three tapestries woven in the Rhineland for the Halberstadt Cathedral were narrative. Dating from the late 12th and early 13th centuries, these wool and linen hangings are highly stylized and schematic in their representations of figures and space, with all forms being outlined. The Tapestry of the Angels, showing scenes from the life of Abraham and St. Michael the Archangel, and the Tapestry of the Apostles, showing Christ surrounded by his 12 disciples, were both intended to be hung over the cathedral’s choir stalls and therefore are long and narrow. The third hanging, called the Tapestry of Charlemagne Among the Four Philosophers of Antiquity, is a vertical wall hanging related to works produced by the convent at Quedlinburg in the German Rhineland during the Romanesque period of the 12th and early 13th centuries.
Fragments of a tapestry with traces of human figures and trees reminiscent of hangings described in the Norse sagas were found in an early 9th-century burial ship excavated at Oseberg in Norway. One of the major works of Romanesque weaving is a more complete tapestry dating from around the end of the 12th or early 13th century that was made for the Norwegian church of Baldishol in the district of Hedmark. Originally a set of wool hangings on the 12 months of the year, only the panels of April and May have survived. The pronounced stylization of the images relates these tapestries to those executed for Halberstadt Cathedral.
14th century
In the 14th century the western European tradition of tapestry became firmly established. At that time the most sophisticated centres of production were in Paris and Flanders. Large numbers of tapestries are recorded in inventories. The more luxurious standards of living being adopted by the wealthy of the Gothic period extended the use of tapestries beyond the customary wall hangings to covers for furniture. Survivals of 14th-century workmanship, however, are rare, and the most important of these were produced by Parisian weavers. The outstanding example of their art is the famous Angers Apocalypse, which was begun in 1377 for the duke of Anjou by Nicolas Bataille (flourished c. 1363–1400). This monumental set originally included seven tapestries, each measuring approximately 16.5 feet in height by 80 feet in length (5.03 by 24.38 metres). Based on cartoons drawn by Jean de Bandol of Bruges (flourished 1368–81), the official painter to Charles V, king of France, only 67 of the original 105 scenes have survived. A slightly later series (c. 1385) possibly woven in the same Parisian workshop is the Nine Heroes. This set is not a religious narrative but illustrates the chivalric text Histoire des neuf preux (“Story of the Nine Heroes”) by the early 14th-century wandering minstrel, or jongleur, Jacques de Longuyon.
Flanders, particularly the city of Arras, was the other great centre of the tapestry industry in 14th-century Europe. The tapestry produced there had such an international reputation that terms for tapestry in Italian (arrazzo) and Spanish (drap de raz) and English (arras) were derived from the name of this Flemish city. Long a medieval centre of textile weaving, Arras became an important tapestry centre when the leading citizens decided to create a luxury industry to alleviate the economic crisis caused by a decline in the sale of Arras textiles due to the popularity of cloth from the Flemish region of Brabant.