Albert Frederick Mummery

Albert Frederick Mummery (born Sept. 10, 1855, Dover, Kent, Eng.—died Aug. 24, 1895, western Kashmir, India) was an English mountaineer who was the first to climb several Alpine peaks, including Dent du Requin, Col des Cortes, and Zmutt Ridge of the Matterhorn.

Mummery was very sickly as a child, but he overcame his physical handicaps and myopia to become a daring climber. He began climbing at the age of 16 and in 1879 teamed with a guide, Alexander Burgener, to make his first ascent of Col du Lion. Mummery began climbing without guides in 1890 and two years later led a guideless team of four on the first ascent of the Alpine peak Crépon, which had previously been considered inaccessible. He disappeared in 1895 while attempting to scale the Himalayan peak of Nānga Parbat (26,660 feet [8,126 metres]); it is believed that he and his party of Nepalese porters were buried by an avalanche. Mummery’s book My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1895) remains one of the most influential sources on mountaineering.