Oh Eun-Sun

Oh Eun-Sun (born March 5, 1966, Namwŏn, North Chŏlla province, South Korea) is a South Korean professional mountain climber whose claim to be the first woman to scale all 14 of the ‘eight-thousanders’—the world’s tallest peaks, over 26,250 feet (8,000 metres) high—was disputed as some questioned whether she had summited Kanchenjunga.

Oh’s father was in the South Korean military, and the family moved often during her early childhood, eventually settling in Seoul. During high school she took up rock climbing. In 1985 she entered the University of Suwon, where she majored in computer science and was a member of the mountaineering club. After graduation she became a civil servant in Seoul, a job she left in the early 1990s in order to join an all-female group planning an expedition to Mount Everest. After a period of intensive training, in 1993 she climbed Everest to 23,950 feet (7,300 metres) with the team, but she was unable to reach the summit.

Disappointed at her failure to make it to the top, Oh resolved to train harder. She reached the summit of her first 8,000-metre peak in 1997, when she scaled Gasherbrum II (26,361 feet [8,035 metres]) in the Karakoram Range (on the border between Pakistani- and Chinese-administered portions of the Kashmir region). In 1999 she attempted two more summits—Broad Peak (26,401 feet [8,047 metres]), also in the Karakorams, and Makalu (27,766 feet [8,463 metres]), in the Himalayas between Nepal and China (Tibet)—but could not reach the top of either one. After her failure in 2001 to summit K2 (in the Karakorams; 28,251 feet [8,611 metres]), the world’s second highest peak, she stopped attempting 8,000-metre mountains for a time and concentrated on other notable peaks. Between 2002 and 2004 she climbed the highest points on each of the seven continents, including Mount Everest in 2004, a feat she accomplished solo. She also added Jaya Peak in Indonesia, the highest mountain on an island, to her list of accomplishments in 2006.

After her successful ascent of Everest, she continued her conquest of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks. She scaled one (Xixabangma, northwest of Everest; 26,286 feet [8,012 metres]) in 2006, two in 2007 (including K2), and four each in 2008 (including Broad Peak and Makalu) and 2009, setting the stage for her climb of the final mountain in the group, Annapurna I (26,545 feet [8,091 metres]), in Nepal. She was unsuccessful in her first attempt in 2009, turning back just short of the summit because of bad weather. However, she topped the mountain on April 27, 2010, finishing the climb on her hands and knees.

Shortly before Oh completed her ascent of Annapurna I, her status as the first woman to climb all the 8,000-metre peaks was placed in jeopardy. Although the national mountaineering club of Nepal, the Nepal Mountaineering Association, quickly recognized Oh’s overall achievement, her closest rival for the title, Spain’s Edurne Pasaban, questioned whether Oh had really reached the summit of Kanchenjunga (28,169 feet [8,586 metres]), on the India-Nepal border, when she climbed it in 2009. Evidence in the controversy included a photograph of Oh said to have been taken at the summit—a claim Pasaban disputed—and the conflicting testimony of the Sherpa guides who had accompanied her up that mountain. Both sides agreed to accept the judgment of Elizabeth Hawley, long regarded as mountaineering’s unofficial record keeper and historian. After interviewing Oh following her return from climbing Annapurna, Hawley accepted Oh’s version of events on Kanchenjunga while listing the ascent as “disputed.” However, in June 2010 Hawley said it was “unlikely” that Oh had reached the top of the mountain, and two months later the Alpine Korean Federation stated that she had “probably failed” to summit Kanchenjunga.