Chocolate’s journey from bean to bar is a fascinating process that begins with the humble cocoa bean, the seed of the cacao tree, which thrives in tropical climates. Once harvested, the beans are fermented for several days, a crucial step that develops their flavor, fragrance, and color. After fermentation, the beans are dried, typically in the sun, to reduce their moisture content. This drying process is essential to prepare the beans for the next stage: roasting. Roasting the beans not only further enhances their flavor and color but also makes it easier to remove their shells, revealing the nibs inside for the winnowing process, in which the shells are separated from the nibs.

After winnowing, the nibs are ground into a paste known as chocolate liquor or cocoa mass. This paste is the foundation of all chocolate products. During grinding, the nibs release cocoa butter, a natural fat that gives chocolate its smooth texture. Depending on the desired end product, this chocolate liquor can be further processed to create cocoa powder or combined with other ingredients to make different types of chocolate.

Conching is another critical step in chocolate making that involves continuously mixing and aerating the chocolate liquor through the use of a conche machine. This process can take anywhere from a few hours to several days, depending on the desired texture and flavor and the type of machine used. Conching helps to develop the chocolate’s flavor and uniformity, and the temperature and duration of conching are carefully controlled. This step is what transforms chocolate from a gritty paste into a silky, melt-in-your-mouth treat.

Next, the chocolate is tempered, which involves carefully cooling and reheating the chocolate to stabilize the cocoa butter crystals. This helps to give chocolate its glossy finish and satisfying snap when broken. Once tempered, the chocolate is poured into molds to set into bars or other shapes. It is then cooled and hardened until it is ready to be packaged and enjoyed. The addition of ingredients such as milk, sugar, and flavorings can create a variety of chocolate types, from dark to milk to white chocolate.

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Cocoa Crunch Isn’t Over Yet as Top Growers Struggle With Supply Apr. 22, 2025, 3:06 AM ET (Bloomberg.com)

cocoa bean, seed of the cacao tree (Theobroma cacao), which is used to create cocoa and cocoa butter, key ingredients of chocolate. The beans themselves can be crushed or chopped into “nibs” for a variety of culinary uses, from salad dressing to ice cream toppings; they can also add thickness to a sauce or texture to a cake. The flavours tend to be pungent and untamed, while quality is very obvious.

Cultivation and processing

After four years a mature cacao tree produces fruit in the form of elongated pods that range in colour from bright yellow to deep purple. A single tree may yield up to 70 such fruits annually, and the fruits ripen in less than six months. Each pod has numerous ridges running along its length and holds 20 to 60 seeds, the cocoa beans, arranged around the long axis of the pod. The oval seeds are about 2.5 cm (1 inch) long and are covered with a sweet sticky white pulp.

Harvesting of cocoa beans can proceed all year, but the bulk of the crop is gathered in two flush periods occurring from October to February and from May to August. The ripe seed pods are cut from the trees and split open with a machete. The beans, removed from the pods with their surrounding pulp, are accumulated in leaf-covered heaps, in leaf-lined holes dug in the ground, or in large shallow boxes perforated at the bottom to provide for drainage.

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The beans with their pulp are fermented for one to seven days, depending on the type and grade. Frequent turnings dissipate excess heat and provide uniformity. During fermentation the juicy sweatings of the pulp are drained away, the germ in the seed is killed by the increased heat, and flavour development begins. The beans become plump and full of moisture, and the interior develops a reddish brown colour and a heavy sharp fragrance. The fermented beans are sun-dried or kiln-dried to reduce moisture content to 6–7 percent and are bagged for shipment.

The fermented and dried cocoa beans are then typically roasted. Roasting develops flavour, reduces acidity and astringency, lowers moisture content, deepens colour, and facilitates shell removal. After roasting comes a cracking and fanning (winnowing) process, in which machines crack the shells and then separate them from the heavier nibs by means of blowers. Nibs can be sold or further processed. Grinding releases the fat, or cocoa butter, and forms a paste, called chocolate liquor or cocoa mass. The chocolate liquor is pressed and pulverized into cocoa powder to make chocolate.

Cocoa bean shells, the major by-product of cocoa processing, represent 8–10 percent of raw cocoa bean weight and are blown off in the cracking and fanning, or winnowing, operation. They are used for fertilizer, mulch, and fuel.

L. Russell Cook

History

The cacao tree was cultivated more than 3,000 years ago by the MayaToltec, and Aztec peoples, who prepared a beverage from cocoa beans (sometimes using it as a ceremonial drink) and also used the beans as currency. The Maya considered chocolate to be the food of the gods and held the cacao tree to be sacred. For the Aztec people, the drinks made from cocoa beans were reserved for the emperor and aristocracy. After destroying the Aztec empire, the colonizing Spanish began to experiment with cocoa; mole poblano, the rich chili-cocoa sauce, is probably an early example of this. When cocoa reached Europe, the Italians used the new spice in savoury dishes and created some of the earliest chocolate sweets with sugar.

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