The history of Eastern dress

China

By the Shang dynasty (c. 1600–1046 bce) Chinese sericulture—the raising of silk worms and the production of silk—had become very sophisticated. Textile production was associated with women; as a proverb put it, “men till, women weave.” Already by the Dong (Eastern) Zhou dynasty (770–256 bce) the art of weaving complex patterned silks was well advanced.

By the end of the Han dynasty (206 bce–220 ce) virtually every technique of weaving now known had already been invented in China. Han bas-reliefs and scenes painted on tiles show men and women dressed in wide-sleeved kimono-like garments which, girdled at the waist, fall in voluminous folds around their feet. This pao robe changed form but continued to be worn in China until the end of the Ming dynasty in 1644. Other traditional garments include the tunic or jacket, worn by both sexes over loosely cut trousers. For colder weather, clothing was padded with cotton or silk or lined with fur.

Chinese records indicate that at least as early as the Tang dynasty (618–907) certain designs, colours, and accessories were used to distinguish the ranks of imperial, noble, and official families; the earliest visual evidence of these emblematic distinctions in dress is to be found in Ming portraits. In some of these, emperors are portrayed in voluminous dark-coloured pao on which are seen the 12 symbols—dragon, pheasant, sun, moon, constellation, fire, mountain, axe, chalice, water weed, millet, and fu—that from time immemorial had been designated as imperial insignia. Other Ming portraits show officials clothed in red pao that have large bird or animal squares (called “mandarin squares,” or pufang) on the breast, as specific bird and animal emblems to designate each of the nine ranks of civil and military officials had been adopted by the Ming in 1391.

When the Manchus overthrew the Ming and established the Qing dynasty (1644–1911/12), it was decreed that new styles of dress should replace the pao costume. The most formal of the robes introduced by the Manchus was the chaofu, designed to be worn only at great state sacrifices and at the most important court functions. Men’s chaofu had a kimono-style upper body, with long, close-fitting sleeves that terminated in the “horsehoof” cuff introduced by the Manchus, and a closely fitted neckband over which was worn a detached collar distinguished by winglike tips that extended over the shoulders. Below, attached to a set-in waistband, was a full, pleated or gathered skirt. Precisely stipulated colours and pattern arrangements of five-clawed dragons and clouds, waves, and mountains were specified for the chaofu of emperors, princes, nobles, and officials; the emperor’s lofty rank was clearly identified by the bright yellow of his robe and the 12 imperial symbols emblazoned on it. All other ranks wore “stone blue” chaofu decorated in accordance with prescribed rules about the number, type, and arrangement of dragon motifs.

Only women of very high rank were permitted to wear chaofu. Women’s robes were less commodious than the men’s and were cut in long, straight lines with no break at the waist. The narrow sleeves with horsehoof cuffs of these chaofu robes and the arrangement of their dragon, cloud, mountain, and wave patterns were essentially the same as those of the so-called dragon robes discussed below. They were clearly differentiated from the dragon robes, however, by their capelike collars and by flaring epaulets that gradually narrowed as they continued downward and under the arms. Stole-like vests, always worn over women’s chaofu, were also a distinguishing feature of this costume.

Qifu, or “dragon robes” (longpao) as they were usually called, were designed for regular court wear by men and women of imperial, noble, and official rank. The qifu was a straight, kimono-sleeved robe with a closely fitted neckband that continued across the breast and down to the underarm closing on the right side, the long tubular sleeves terminating in horsehoof cuffs. The skirt of the qifu cleared the ground to permit easy walking and in men’s garments was slit front and back as well as at the sides to facilitate riding; the extra slits were the only feature that distinguished the qifu of men below the rank of emperor from those of their wives. All qifu were elaborately patterned with specified arrangements of dragons, clouds, mountains, and waves, to which were added Buddhist, Daoist, or traditionally auspicious motifs. Distinctions in rank were indicated by the colours of the robes and by slight variations in the basic patterns; however, because of the large number of personages who wore qifu, these distinctions were not always easily recognizable. Emperors’ qifu, either yellow or blue, were always distinguished by the 12 imperial symbols.

The informal Manchu changfu, a plain long robe, was worn by all classes from the emperor down, though Chinese women also continued to wear their Ming-style costumes, which consisted of a three-quarter-length jacket and pleated skirt. Men’s changfu, cut in the style of the qifu, usually were made of monochrome patterned damask or gauze; women’s changfu had wide, loose sleeves finished off with especially designed sleevebands decorated with gay woven or embroidered patterns.

The declining Qing dynasty was swept aside in 1912, and China began to emulate the world outside its boundaries. Gradually this was reflected in dress. By the 1920s upper-class women, in particular, had adopted a compromise attire. This was the qipao, better known in the West by its Cantonese name, cheongsam, or as a “mandarin dress.” The qipao had developed from the changfu. A close-fitting dress made from one piece of material, the qipao was fastened up the right (or more rarely, the left) front side. It had a high mandarin collar, and its skirt was slit up the sides to the knee. It was made of traditional Chinese fabrics, padded in winter for warmth. At first it was a long dress, but the hemline gradually rose.

In mainland China the communist revolution of 1949 brought strict directives on dress. Styles were to be the same for everyone, whether man or woman, intellectual or manual labourer. The drab uniform that resulted, often known as a “Mao suit” because it was favoured by Mao Zedong, was a blend of peasant and military design. It consisted of a military-style high-collared jacket and long trousers. Men’s hair was short and usually covered by a peaked cap. Women’s hair was longer and uncurled. Shoes had flat heels. No cosmetics or jewelry were permitted. Traditional Chinese cotton was used to make the garments; colour designated worker, soldier, or cadre. After about 1960 a small degree of Westernization set in, permitting a variation in colour and fabric. Dresses were introduced for women.

After Mao’s death in 1976, China experienced a distinct, if gradual, loosening of communist directives. In terms of fashion, the increasingly entrepreneurial economy created both the desire for and the financial means to obtain a wider variety of dress, especially in urban areas.