Africa

The river systems were the key to African geography. The existence of a great river in the interior of West Africa was known to the Greeks, but in which direction it flowed and whether it found an outlet in the Sénégal, the Gambia, the Congo, or even the Nile were in dispute. A young Scottish surgeon, Mungo Park, was asked to explore it by the African Association of London. In 1796 Park, who had traveled inland from the Gambia, saw “the long sought for majestic Niger flowing slowly eastwards.” On a second expedition, attempting to follow its course to the mouth, he was drowned near Bussa, in what is now Nigeria. In 1830 an English explorer, Richard Lander, traveled from the Bight of Benin, on the West African coast, to Bussa, and he then navigated the river down to its mouth, which was revealed as being one of the delta distributaries that, because of the trade in palm oil, were known to traders as “the oil rivers” on the Gulf of Guinea.

The Zambezi, in south-central Africa, was not known at all until, in the mid-19th century, the Scottish missionary-explorer David Livingstone crossed the Kalahari from the south, found Lake Ngami, and, hearing of populous areas farther north, came upon the river in midcourse. On a great exploratory journey from 1852 to 1856, the main purpose of which was to expose the slave trade, he first traveled upstream, crossed the watershed between the tributaries of the upper Zambezi and those of the lower Congo, and reached the west coast at Luanda, Angola. From there a year’s march brought him back to his starting point near the falls that the Africans called “smoke does sound” but that Livingstone prosaically renamed the Victoria Falls; from here he followed the Zambezi downstream, reaching the east coast at Quelimane, in Portuguese East Africa (Mozambique). On his second journey, sent out by the British government to test the navigability of the lower Zambezi, he explored the Shire (Chire) and Rovuma rivers and reached Lake Nyasa. His last journey, from 1865 to 1871, was undertaken at the behest of the president of Britain’s Royal Geographical Society (successor to the African Association) “to solve a question of intense geographical interest…namely the watershed or watersheds of southern Africa.” On this journey Livingstone investigated the complex drainage system between Lake Nyasa and Lake Tanganyika and explored the headwaters of the Congo. He refused to return to England with the Welsh explorer Henry Morton Stanley, who was sent to his rescue in 1871, because he was still uncertain of the position of the watershed between the Nile and the Congo; he wondered if the Lualaba was perhaps a headstream of the Nile. He struggled back to the maze of waterways around Lake Bangweulu and died there in 1873.

The whereabouts of the source of the Nile had intrigued men since the days of the pharaohs. A Scottish explorer, James Bruce, traveling in Ethiopia in 1770, visited the two fountains in Lake Tana, the source of the Blue Nile, first discovered by the Spanish priest Paez in 1618. The English explorers Richard Burton and John Speke discovered Lake Tanganyika in 1857. Speke then traveled north alone and reached the southern creek of a lake, which he named Victoria Nyanza. Without exploring farther, he returned to England, sure that he had found the source of the Nile. He was right—but he had not seen the outlet, and Burton did not believe him. In 1862 Speke, traveling with the Scottish explorer James Grant, found the Ripon Falls, in Uganda (which was submerged following the construction of the Owen Falls Dam [now the Nalubaale Dam] in 1954), and “saw without any doubt that Old Father Nile rises in Victoria Nyanza.” Stanley completed the puzzle in 1875; he circumnavigated Victoria Nyanza, crossed to the Lualaba, followed that river to the Congo, and then followed the Congo to its mouth. The pattern made by the river systems of Africa was elucidated at last.

Australia

The interior of Australia also posed a problem: was its heart an inland sea or a desert? This question did not arouse anything approaching the same degree of public interest that was taken in the geography of Africa. Exploration was slow; the early settlers on the east coast found that the valleys led to impassable walls at the valley heads. In 1813 the Australian explorer Gregory Blaxland successfully crossed the Blue Mountains by following a ridge instead of taking a valley route. Rivers were found beyond the mountains, but they did not behave as expected. Another explorer, the Australian John Oxley, in 1818 observed: “On every hill a spring, in every valley a rivulet, but the river itself disappears.” He guessed that the great fan of rivers that drained the western slopes of the Great Dividing Range of eastern Australia fell into an inland sea. The Australian Charles Sturt resolved the problem by an imaginative journey made in 1829–30. He embarked on the Murrumbidgee River and was “hurried into a great and noble river [the Murray].” A week later he encountered another big river flowing into the Murray from the north, that he rightly concluded was the Darling, the middle course of which he had explored the year before. The voyage ended when he discovered that the Murray drained into Encounter Bay on the south coast. The heart of Australia was not an inland sea but a vast desert. Many more expeditions were needed to map the continent’s major features, but two revealed its great extent. In 1840–41 the Australian Edward John Eyre traveled along the south coast from Adelaide to Albany, a distance of more than 1,300 miles (2,100 km); the Australians Robert Burke and William John Wills traveled from Melbourne in the southeast to the Gulf of Carpentaria in the north.

Polar regions

The exploration of the polar regions was the work of the first half of the 20th century. Scientific curiosity mainly inspired the various enterprises, although political rivalry also played some part.

In the North Polar regions, the scientific age began with the voyaging of William Scoresby, an English whaler and scientist, who in 1806 reached 81°21′ N. In 1828 an English explorer, Sir William Parry, traveling over drift ice from Svalbard, reached 82° N. The Norwegian explorer Fridtjof Nansen in 1893 attempted to reach the Pole by allowing his ship, the Fram, to be frozen into the ice in the East Siberian Sea in the hope that a current would carry it over the Pole to east Greenland. At 84° N 102° E, Nansen with a companion left the ship and traveled by sled to 86°13′ N: the ship eventually emerged from the pack ice north of Svalbard. In 1909 an American explorer, Robert Peary, reached the North Pole by journeying by sled with 50 Eskimos from Ellesmere Island, northwest of Greenland. Soundings of 9,000 feet (2,700 metres) were made within 5 miles (8 km) of the Pole; it seemed, therefore, that there could be no continent here. In 1958 the U.S. submarines Skate and Nautilus traveled across the Arctic Ocean under the ice cap.

The great southern continent, which Captain Cook demonstrated could not lie in the South Pacific, lay there neglected for some 50 years. From 1839 to 1843, the British rear admiral James Ross, in command of the ships Erebus and Terror, explored the coast of Victoria Land. In 1894 Leonard Christensen, captain of a Norwegian whaler, landed a party at Cape Adare, the first to set foot on Antarctica. In the first decade of the 20th century, various explorers, including Britons such as William Bruce, Robert Falcon Scott, and Sir Ernest Henry Shackleton, the German Erich von Drygalski, and the Frenchman Jean-Baptiste Charcot, confirmed the existence of an ice cap of continental dimensions. In 1908–09 Shackleton led a brilliant expedition, during which he examined the Great Barrier, climbed to 11,000 feet (3,400 metres), and reached 88°23′ S. Scott and his party reached the Pole on Jan. 17, 1912, only to find that the Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen had already been there on December 14, 1911; Scott’s party, caught in a blizzard, died on their return journey. In 1928 Sir Hubert Wilkins, the British explorer and aviator, flew over Graham Land, using Deception Island as a base. In 1957 and 1958 the British explorer Vivian Fuchs and Sir Edmund Hillary, the New Zealand mountaineer, traveled across the continent.