Fabric construction yarns

Almost any textile yarn can be used to produce such interlaced fabrics as woven and knitted types. In weaving, the warp, or lengthwise, yarns are subjected to greater stress and are usually stronger, smoother, and more even and have tighter twist than the weft, or crosswise, yarns. A sizing (stiffening) material such as starch may be applied to warp yarns, increasing their strength to withstand the stresses of fabric construction operations. Weft yarns, subjected to little stress during weaving, may be quite fragile.

Warp and weft threads used in the same fabric may be of differing diameter, producing such special effects as ribbing or cording in the fabric. Special effects may also be obtained by combining warp and weft yarns of fibre from differing origin, or with different degrees of twist, or by introducing metallic threads into weaves composed of other fibres.

Yarns for machine knitting are usually loosely twisted because softness is desired in knit fabrics.

Yarns used in handwork

Yarns used in hand knitting are generally of two or more ply. They include such types as fingering yarns, usually of two or three plys, light to medium in weight and with even diameter, used for various types of apparel; Germantown yarns, soft and thick, usually four-ply and of medium weight, frequently used for sweaters and blankets; Shetland yarns, fine, soft, fluffy, and lightweight, frequently two-ply, used for infants’ and children’s sweaters and for shawls; worsted knitting yarn, highly twisted and heavy, differing from worsted fabric by being soft instead of crisp, and suitable for sweaters; and zephyr yarns, either all wool, or wool blended with other fibres, very fine and soft, with low twist, and used for lightweight garments.

Embroidery floss, used in hand embroidery, generally has low twist, is of the ply or cord type, and is made of such smooth filaments as silk and rayon. Yarn used for crocheting is frequently a loose cotton cord type; and darning yarns are usually loosely spun.

Sewing thread

Sewing threads are tightly twisted ply yarns made with strands having equally balanced twist, producing a circular cross section. Thread for use in commercial or home sewing machines and for hand sewing should allow easy movement when tension is applied and ease in needle threading; should be smooth, to resist friction during sewing; should have sufficient elasticity to avoid the breaking of stitches or puckering of seams; and should have sufficient strength to hold seams during laundering or dry cleaning and in use.

Threads for special uses may require appropriate treatment. Garments made of water-repellent fabrics, for example, may be sewn with thread that has also been made water-repellent. Thread is usually subjected to special treatment after spinning and is then wound on spools. Thread size is frequently indicated on the spool end, and systems for indicating degree of fineness vary according to the textile measurement system used locally.

Silk thread has great elasticity and strength combined with fine diameter. It can be permanently stretched in sewing, and is suitable for silks and wools. Buttonhole twist is a strong, lustrous silk about three times the diameter of normal sewing silk, and is used for hand-worked buttonholes, for sewing on buttons, and for various decorative effects.

Cotton thread is compatible with fabric made from yarn of plant origin, such as cotton and linen, and for rayon (made from a plant substance), because it has similar shrinkage characteristics. It is not suitable for most synthetics, which do not shrink, or for fabrics treated to reduce shrinkage. Its low stretch is useful for woven fabrics, but not for knits, which require more stretch.

Nylon thread is strong, with great stretch and recovery, does not shrink, and is suitable for sheers and for very stretchy knits. Polyester thread has similar characteristics, and is appropriate for various synthetic and preshrunk fabrics, and for knits made of synthetic yarns.

Indirect systems

Indirect measuring systems are those employing higher number to describe finer yarns and are based on length per unit weight. Most countries measure yarns made from staple fibres according to the weight of a length of yarn. If one pound is used as a standard unit, for example, a very fine yarn will have to be much longer than a coarser yarn to weigh a pound, so higher counts indicate finer yarns. The size number is an indication of the length of yarn needed to reach a weight of one pound.

In the United States, the system is based on the number of hanks per pound, with a hank of 840 yards for cotton and spun silk, 300 yards (a lea) for linen, 256 yards for woollen yarns, and 560 yards for worsted yarns. A widely used Continental system is based on the number of hanks of 1,000 metres (one kilometre) required to reach a weight of one kilogram.

Denier system

The denier system is a direct-management type, employed internationally to measure the size of silk and synthetic filaments and yarns, and derived from an earlier system for measuring silk filaments (based on the weight in drams of 1,000 yards). Denier number indicates the weight in grams of 9,000 metres of filament or filament yarn. For example, if 9,000 metres of a yarn weigh 15 grams, it is a 15-denier yarn; if 9,000 metres of a yarn weigh 100 grams, it is a 100-denier yarn and much coarser than the 15-denier yarn. Thus, a smaller number indicates a finer yarn. This system is not convenient for measurement of staple yarns because their greater weight would require the use of very large numbers.

Tex system

The tex system, originally devised in 1873, is a universal method developed for the measurement of staple fibre yarns and is also applicable to the measurement of filament yarns. It is based on the weight in grams of one kilometre (3,300 feet) of yarn.