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The Jacquard weave, used to make allover figured fabrics such as brocades, tapestries, and damasks, is woven on a loom having a Jacquard attachment to control individual warps. Fabrics of this type are costly because of the time and skill involved in making the Jacquard cards, preparing the loom to produce a new pattern, and the slowness of the weaving operation. The Jacquard weave usually combines two or more basic weaves, with different weaves used for the design and the background.
Dobby weaves
Dobby weaves also produce allover figured fabrics. They are made on looms having a dobby attachment, with narrow strips of wood instead of Jacquard cards. Dobby weaves are limited to simple, small geometric figures, with the design repeated frequently, and are fairly inexpensive to produce.
Gauze or leno weave
Gauze weaving is an open weave made by twisting adjacent warps together. It is usually made by the leno, or doup, weaving process, in which a doup attachment, a thin hairpin-like needle attached to two healds, is used, and the adjacent warp yarns cross each other between picks. Since the crossed warps firmly lock each weft in place, gauze weaves are often used for sheer fabrics made of smooth fine yarns. Although gauze weaving, with its multitude of variations, has been adapted to modern production, it is an ancient technique.
Knitted fabrics
Knitted fabrics are constructed by interlocking a series of loops made from one or more yarns, with each row of loops caught into the preceding row. Loops running lengthwise are called wales, and those running crosswise are courses. Hand knitting probably originated among the nomads of the Arabian Desert about 1000 bce and spread from Egypt to Spain, France, and Italy. Knitting guilds were established in Paris and Florence by the later Middle Ages. Austria and Germany produced heavily cabled and knotted fabrics, embroidered with brightly coloured patterns. In the Netherlands, naturalistic patterns were worked on fabric in reverse stocking stitch, and several Dutch knitters went to Denmark to teach Danish women the Dutch skills. The craft of hand knitting became less important with the invention of a frame knitting machine in 1589, although the production of yarns for hand knitting has remained an important branch of the textile industry to the present day.
The frame knitting machine allowed production of a complete row of loops at one time. The modern knitting industry, with its highly sophisticated machinery, has grown from this simple device.
Knitted fabrics were formerly described in terms of the number of courses and wales per unit length and the weight of the fabric per unit area. This system is limited, however, and there is a shift to use of the dimensions and configuration of the single loop, the repeating unit determining such fabric characteristics as area, knitting quality, and weight. The length of yarn knitted into a loop or stitch is termed the stitch length, and in a plain knitted structure this is related to the courses per inch, wales per inch, and stitch density. The two basic equilibrium states for knitted fabrics are the dry-relaxed state, attained by allowing the fabric to relax freely in the air, and the wet-relaxed state, reached after static relaxation of the fabric in water followed by drying.
Knitting machines
The needle is the basic element of all knitting machines. The two main needle types are the “bearded” spring needle, invented about 1589, and the more common latch needle, invented in 1847.
The bearded needle, made from thin wire, has one end bent, forming an operating handle; the other end is drawn out and bent over, forming a long flexible tipped hook resembling a beard. A smooth groove, or eye, is cut in the stem or shank of the needle just behind the tip. In use this needle requires two other units, a sinker to form a loop and a presser to close the needle beard, allowing the loop to pass over the beard when a new stitch is formed. Bearded needles can be made from very fine wire and are used to produce fine fabrics.
The latch needle is composed of a curved hook, a latch, or tumbler, that swings on a rivet just below the hook, and the stem, or butt. It is sometimes called the self-acting needle because no presser is needed; the hook is closed by the pressure of a completed loop on the latch as it rises on the shaft. Needles differ greatly in thickness, in gauge, and in length, and appropriate types must be selected for specific purposes. A 4-gauge needle, for example, is used for heavy sweaters, but an 80-gauge needle is required for fine hosiery.