Archaeological evidence indicates that prehistoric Indian settlements existed in Nevada more than 20,000 years ago. Cave dwellers left picture writings on rocks in southern Nevada, and Basketmakers and Pueblo Indians also flourished there. Explorers of the early 1800s found Mojave, Paiute, Shoshone, and Washoe groups at various locations within Nevada.

Explorers and settlers

Missionaries and fur traders were in the vanguard of the exploration of the Nevada area. The missionary travels of Francisco Garcés from New Mexico to California in 1775–76 were imitated by other Spanish Franciscans. In 1825 Hudson’s Bay Company trappers explored the northern and central region, and two years later Jedediah Smith led a party of American traders into the Las Vegas Valley and across the Great Basin. By 1830 the Old Spanish Trail was bringing traders to the area from Santa Fe and Los Angeles, and in 1843 and 1845 John C. Frémont’s explorations with Kit Carson publicized the Great Basin and the Sierra Nevada region. During the 1840s pioneers followed the Humboldt Valley–Donner Pass route to the Pacific Coast, and the Gold Rush of 1849 greatly expanded migration through Nevada to California.

Nevada, which came within U.S. sovereignty under the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo (1848), was a part of California until it was incorporated into the newly organized Utah Territory in 1850. In 1849 a settlement was made at Mormon Station (later Genoa) in Carson Valley, but the population remained sparse until the discovery of the famous Comstock Lode in 1859. From that time on Nevada ceased to be merely a highway for gold seekers on the way to California. Virginia City became the most famous of all the Western mining camps, and the rapid influx of prospectors and settlers resulted in the organization of Nevada Territory in 1861.

The American Civil War (1861–65) gave strategic importance to the new territory. Pres. Abraham Lincoln realized that Nevada’s mineral wealth could help the Union; he also needed a Northern-allied state to support proposed antislavery amendments to the Constitution and a strategic buffer zone to check Confederate advances against California from Arizona and New Mexico, whose people were sympathetic to the Southern cause. Although Nevada Territory had only about one-fifth of the population required for statehood, Congress accepted the proposed state constitution and voted for statehood in 1864.

Mining and cattle-ranching decades

In its early decades Nevada’s economy was dependent on mining and ranching. The rich Comstock mines reached a maximum annual output of $36 million in silver in 1878. During the 1870s, however, the federal government limited the role of silver in the monetary system, causing a decline in silver prices, the closing of many Nevada mines, and the decay of once-thriving communities into ghost towns.

As mining declined, cattle ranching became a major industry. Beef prices, however, were unpredictable, high railroad rates were burdensome, and severe winters often killed thousands of cattle. In the late 1880s many cattle ranchers were forced into bankruptcy. With the depression of the mining and ranching industries, the state’s population dropped from 62,000 in 1880 to 47,000 in 1890.

Prosperity returned to Nevada only after the beginning of the 20th century, when rich silver ores were discovered near Tonopah and major copper deposits around Ely and when a major gold strike occurred at Goldfield. Thousands of miners answered the lure of these bonanzas, and the railroads built extensive branchlines to bring in equipment to the mining areas and haul out the ore. Accessible railroads and low shipping rates also encouraged cattle ranchers to renew large-scale production. Irrigation of fertile river valleys produced sizable hay crops. Thus assured of winter feed, ranchers further expanded their herds in the upland regions. World War I created demand for Nevada’s beef and metals, which kept the boom going, but the failing markets of the 1920s brought the return of economic depression.

Politically, during its first three decades as a state, Nevada was a Republican stronghold. Reflecting the lax standards in national politics, the state was often manipulated by corrupt politicians. Mine owners and ranchers frequently subsidized government officials, and there were accusations that rich men in the state had bought seats in the U.S. Senate. Monetary issues became of paramount importance in the 1890s, and the Silver Party grew out of the Free Silver Movement, taking members from both the Democratic and Republican parties, though mostly the latter. In the 1890s, candidates of the Nevada Silver Party won election to the U.S. Senate and House of Representatives and to the state governorship. By 1902, however, the silver issue had taken a back seat, and thereafter the two major national parties were in control.

Creation of a modern economy

Nevada began its transition to a modern economy during the Great Depression of the 1930s. After the legalization of gambling in 1931 and the reduction to six weeks of the residence requirement for divorce, Nevada became a marriage, divorce, and resort centre.

Construction of Hoover Dam (1930–36) on the Colorado River substantially aided the economy of southern Nevada, and its cheap hydroelectric power opened the way for manufacturing. The importation of hydroelectric power from Bonneville Dam on the Columbia River and piped-in natural gas also brought industrial development in the northwestern region.

Gambling was legalized statewide in 1931, and by the late 1930s Reno had been established as a tourist centre and casino gambling destination. Organized crime syndicates also were attracted to Nevada by the potential profits from gambling and prostitution, which was regulated to varying degrees but not prohibited from the earliest days of Nevada Territory. (A 1971 law allowed legally regulated brothels in certain counties and prohibited them elsewhere; all other prostitution is illegal in the state.) Members of the syndicates established gambling casinos in Las Vegas in the 1940s, and their enormous success led to an influx of legitimate developers into the city. In the 1950s the establishment of the Nevada Test Site by the federal government expanded employment opportunities and stimulated the development of technical industries within the state. Overshadowing the new industrialization, and fundamentally responsible for the current prosperity, was the diversification and expansion of the tourist trade to include not only the gaming and entertainment facilities of the Reno and Las Vegas areas but also the scenic and recreational opportunities statewide. Laughlin emerged as a tourist centre in the 1980s and Lake Tahoe much earlier as a fashionable playground. The principal resort areas—Las Vegas, Reno, Laughlin, and Lake Tahoe—continue to attract tourists from elsewhere in the United States, particularly southern California, and many international visitors. Las Vegas also hosts business and professional conventions.

In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, Nevada was consistently among the fastest-growing states in the country and often held the top position in that regard. Rapid growth continued to pose considerable challenges for resource management, social services and health care, and other aspects of Nevada’s society and economy. The proposed nuclear-waste repository to be located deep within Yucca Mountain was a source of controversy from the time the site was designated by the federal government in 1987. Opposition to the repository was strong among urban Nevadans because of fears that storage plans and environmental regulations were inadequate to protect against radioactive contamination of the groundwater, and federal approval of the site took some 15 years to accomplish. A majority of residents of the rural towns near Yucca Mountain, however, favoured the development of the repository because of the potential for job creation.

Roman J. Zorn Gregory Lewis McNamee

Las Vegas, city, seat (1909) of Clark county, southeastern Nevada, U.S. The only major city in the American West to have been founded in the 20th century, Las Vegas grew from a tiny, desert-bound railroad service center at the outset of the 20th century to the country’s fastest-growing metropolis at century’s end. This transformation—made possible by a combination of shrewd entrepreneurship, access to water, an extensive transportation network, and permissive state laws—has created the city now often known simply as “Vegas,” a place of vast casinos, elaborate hotels, and spectacular entertainment venues that attracts masses of visitors from throughout the world.

Las Vegas is Nevada’s economic centre and largest city. Its metropolitan area, with more than twice the number of people outside the city limits as within them, contains roughly three-fourths of the state’s population. Area 83 square miles (215 square km). Pop. (2010) 583,756; Las Vegas–Paradise Metro Area, 1,951,269; (2020) 641,903; Las Vegas–Henderson Metro Area, 2,265,461.

Character of the city

Las Vegas is a place of million-lightbulb signs and fantastic architecture, of readily visible wealth and carefully hidden poverty. It is a place of superlatives, both positive and negative. Within the city stand the largest glass pyramid in the world; one of the largest hotels in the country, with more than 5,000 rooms; and one of the most expensive hotels ever constructed, the Bellagio. The area along Las Vegas Boulevard and its adjoining near-downtown streets—the famous “Strip”—is the “City Without Clocks,” whose multibillion-dollar economy is devoted to servicing a wide array of impulses and addictions of many kinds. It is this Las Vegas, the flashy playground unofficially known as “Sin City,” that the American novelist and essayist Joan Didion once termed

the most extreme and allegorical of American settlements, bizarre and beautiful in its venality and in its devotion to immediate gratification.

Downtown Las Vegas is built to serve not residents but guests—tens of millions annually. Once derided as a cultural backwater, Las Vegas has evolved into an economic power that outstrips the output of whole countries. It is one of the country’s leading vacation destinations, drawing far more tourists than the Grand Canyon or Yellowstone National Park.

Tower Bridge over the Thames River in London, England. Opened in 1894. Remains an Important Traffic Route with 40,000 Crossings Every Day.
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Beyond the bright lights of the Strip, however, lies a perfectly ordinary Western city, with neighborhoods, churches, shopping centers, and strip malls. It is that city, and not the hotels and casinos, that draws thousands of new residents each year. This growth, coupled with its unusual economic basis, has made Las Vegas one of the wealthiest cities in the country, but it has also brought problems to the area. Las Vegas is among the country’s leaders in personal and property crimes, as well as suicide rates, alcohol consumption, and illegal drug use. The city also suffers the modern urban ills of air and water pollution, and the roads are choked with increasingly heavy traffic as new suburbs spring up in all directions.

Landscape

City site

Las Vegas’s historic core lies at a site once occupied by marshes, freshwater springs, and grassy meadows (hence the city’s name; vegas is Spanish for “meadows”), long since covered by streets, buildings, and parking lots. The modern-day city sprawls across a broad, arid valley at an elevation of roughly 2,000 feet (610 meters). The valley fans out eastward from the picturesque, pine-clad Spring Mountains, whose highest point, Charleston Peak, rises above 11,910 feet (3,630 meters). To the north lie three lower ranges, the Pintwater, Spotted, and Desert mountains, and to the east are the McCullough and Sheep ranges. A wide pass between those two ranges leads to Hoover Dam and Lake Mead, the huge reservoir on the Colorado River impounded by the dam; Las Vegas Wash, the valley’s major drainage, leads through this route.

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Surrounded by mountains, the Las Vegas Valley is a basin that collects the scant rainwater and snowmelt that reach it. Underlying that basin is a series of aquifers that once led out into small springs near the site of what is now the downtown area. These springs, most of which have dried up because of excessive groundwater pumping, historically flowed into the Colorado River toward the Pacific Ocean. The southern limit of the Great Basin reaches to just 15 miles (24 km) north of Las Vegas; its waters, which have no outlet to the sea, disappear into a vast inland desert.

The Las Vegas Valley is ecologically part of the Mojave Desert, whose characteristic plant is the Joshua tree. The smallest of the North American deserts, the Mojave supports significant human settlement only in the Las Vegas area and at a few points along the Colorado River. More than four-fifths of the city’s water supply comes from the Colorado River at Lake Mead. The remainder is pumped from underground aquifers. As more water has been removed from these aquifers, the sandy soils have subsided, leading to fissuring and structural damage of the surface and the formation of large sinkholes. These fissures are compounded by the damage caused by occasional earthquakes; the Las Vegas Valley, particularly its northwest quadrant, lies in an active fault zone.